I'm late getting this data to
you!!! I lost my PC. back in December, 2003. I bought a new one,
then lost it at the end of January, 2004. I'm using a
"loaner."
The other reason is: I
finished these two models. Number "5" was a standard
F4U-1A, which had the big R-4360-2 28 cylinder engine installed,
including the new 4 blade 14' 0" diameter prop. The other
model is my true F2G, which has a number "9" painted on the
left side of the cowling. We will try having the "conversion
kit" available at the 2004 IPMS/USA NATIONAL CONVENTION IN PHOENIX,
ARIZONA U.S.A; this coming July. I will post data on this site
when it's ready.
This image shows my Trumpeter
kit with the aft section cut down. It will become BU #14092, one
of two experimental FG-1A "bubble" canopy Corsairs.
My next photo shows
"Watanabe's" F4U-1D Corsair cockpit drawing. You will note
that there is "no floor." None of my research into the F2G
Corsair program shows floors in any Corsair until they made the
F4U-4. So where did Trumpeter get their data for a floor
installation in the "1D" model? Then I wonder who has the
correct shape for the seat?
Trumpeters cockpit parts are really neat, and fit quite well, including
the fit inside the fuselage.
The instructions on page 5, item #7 says to paint the "front" of
the backing plate "A9" flat black, as well as the front of the
"clear" instrument panel "J1." Assembly then says:
Sandwich in the dials, which are printed in black on clear card stock,
between J1 & A9. Well, if you follow these directions, you will
not be able to see the dials. I glued on .005" white styrene
card stock to the back of the dials, using "Future Floor Wax."
Their tail wheel is similar to mine. Just be careful when gluing all
the parts together, as it "NEEDS" to move up inside the
fuselage, so you can finish working on the outside. I cut off the
"pins" on the inside of the tail wheel yoke, and drilled in
holes, (Parts E32 & E41, instruction #12, page 6). This lets you
paint the tail wheel frame work without the trouble of masking off the
tire and rim. After the painting was complete I slipped in my round
rod into the yoke and into the pre drilled hole in the rim, (part
#E11). I placed the tail wheel in its' retracted position, then
taped the two fuselage halves together. The tail wheel movement is a
bit tight, so I had to stick my finger into the opening, and sort of
spread the sides of the fuselage a bit so I could drop or retract the tail
wheel. I have to do the same thing after the fuselage halves were
glued together. Once your model is finished, you will have to align the
tail wheel in its' down position, then glue it in place. In reality,
the modeler should fill in the area on both fuselage halves, where the
stabilizer's attach, then add the fuselage ribs. Trumpeter's ribs,
stringers, and bulk heads do not match the art drawings. BUT
!! I don't know if the art drawing is correct ??
The engine assembly is
crafted quite well. However be careful when putting all the parts
together, as it's a bit tricky.
Look at the
lower center wing section on page 14, instruction 34. There is no
cover plate behind the exhaust stacks. WHY? All my Corsair
photos show a cove plate behind the exhaust stacks. I cut some card
stock and glued it in place. I discovered that the opening is way to
long, as these photos show. I'll have to remove what I added, then
rebuild it, to its' correct size and shape. I'll probably cut off
the exhaust stacks, and make new ones, or bundle them together and
reattach them later. A more accurate outside front cover plate is in
order!
Like the front main landing
gear doors, the cowling flaps have to go!!! After white gluing on
the cowling flaps, (Part B16 ; Page 15) to the "clear" cowling,
I had some fun wiggling on the unit. The cowling ring kept hitting
the top of the cylinders.
My measurements say that
the cowl flaps are over two (2") too long! There was no space
in between the flaps, as these photos of real aircraft show. The
drawing shown is a "Vought " factory drawing, and not a drawing
by some screwed up artist.
ALAS! The modeler attaches the cowling at the top only, as per
instruction on page 15. My cowling will wobble a bit, thus it can
become "Out of Alignment." I think the modeler should add
some sort of brace from the cowling to the fuselage on the bottom of the
model, (this photo shows that you have the room to add a support brace).
This photo
shows a gap on the top right wing part, where it joins the fuselage.
Same problem for the left side. See page 14, instructions 33 &
34, and 34 again on page 15. I'm going to remove the raised part on
top of each wing, and the two sections on the fuselage. Once I have
the wings glued into position, I'll glue on a strip of card stock like I
did on my #5 & #9 F2G's.
In closing, Trumpeter has some good things and some bad things about their
kit. But it's much much improved over the old Revell kit. Hey!
for $60.00+ it should be!!!!
Most likely Part-III will have some surprises. That's it for now!
Rodney
Click
HERE for Part I
Click
HERE for Part III
Click
HERE for Part IV
