Wow!
Another stunning subject from Chinese manufacturer Trumpeter!
Rather
than repeat the excellent 'in-box' reviews featured elsewhere - including
Michael Benolkin's review over on Cybermodeler
- I thought I'd crack on and build the beast - with a few notes on fixes and
'tweaks'.
So,
here we go!



Construction
begins with the cockpit 'tub' - what you see here is straight kit with an oil
wash to bring out the detail. Colours seem to vary a little from a/c to a/c,
but from references I was able to mix up a pale blue grey that seemed to
match. Also, many photos show the seat rails to be in a pale yellow/cream
primer - so that's what I've done here.
As
with many Trumpeter models, the instruments are provided on a clear film to be
sandwiched between the front panel and a flat backing. Again, as with some of
their other models, the apertures for the instruments are a little on the
small side, so these were opened up with a round file. Additionally the front
panel was thinned by sanding on a wet, flat, sheet of 600 grit wet and dry
paper. The result is shown at right.
I've
left out the throttle and stick (and a couple of other small parts) at this
stage to prevent damage whilst getting the fuselage ready for paint - these
will be easy to replace later on.



Gear bays are
superb - again painted blue grey and weathered with oils. Note that the
instructions in the kit are wrong in two areas - parts C47 and D37 are both
illustrated upside down in sections 3 and 4 - they are shown correctly
orientated in section 7. Secondly - one gear bay is listed as 'Cream Yellow' -
this should be the same grey as the other well.



Gear bays fit
well into the lower fuselage half - with just a little tweaking - I suspect
much of this wont be seen on the finished model. The nose gear well locates
very positively and is held in place with four screws. I used the screws first
- then followed with MEK flooded around the joint for a neat/strong result.
Note that the
cockpit tub should fit fully forward against the front of the opening - and
that I haven't built the gun bay - all of that will be covered over on my
model.


Again - more
views of the gear bays in situ - she's taking shape!


Having tried a
dry fitting of top and bottom fuselage halves with the wings sandwiched in
between, it became apparent that all may go 'pear shaped' very easily! I opted
to first carefully align and then glue the previously completed wings to the
lower fuselage. This was allowed to dry (ensuring everything was straight and
level) before contemplating adding the top half...


There's a lot of
joint area to bond here! Revell 'Contacta' cement was applied to the inner
wing area before laying the upper fuselage half in place. With everything
carefully aligned, the three screws were added to pull everything together.
Note that the screw nearest the nose had to be loosened off a little as trial
fitting the nose showed that the fully tightened screw had 'pinched' the nose
together too much - you have been warned!
MEK was applied
to the upper wing joint area and the wing alignment checked. Large clamps were
applied to ensure the wing area dried properly before attending to the rest of
the fuselage joints. There is a noticeable gap on the top joint - but this can
be fixed later.

The rest of the
joints were bonded - carefully to ensure alignment - and with tape to hold
everything together.

Nearly time to
go on this installment. The nosecone has been added - with little fuss. I have
heard comments to the effect that it doesn't point down far enough - but
having compared with photos and drawings of the real aeroplane - it looks fine
to me...
Also shown above
are my three main references - World Air Power Volumes 15, 28 and 29 -
International Air Power Review Volume 8 and what appears to me to be the
Flanker Bible - Su-27 Flanker Story by Andrei Fomin. A super online reference
can be found at http://mysite.wanadoo-members.co.uk/flankers_pages/walkround_map.htm




That's
it for now - just a few final pictures showing the fins and tailplane dry
fitted in place - starting to look like a Flanker!
Sanding
and airframe prep has started. Not much filling required - tow small areas on
the top/bottom fuselage joint adjacent to the nosecone and noticeable gaps on
the upper wing/fuselage joint.


To
preserve strength (as this is a big model) I've used superglue as a filler -
carefully taping either side of the joint to mask all but the gab - reducing
subsequent sanding work. But don't forget to remove the tape whilst the glue
is still wet!!

Hmmm
- next bit of head scratching... Look at the image above of the intakes and
you'll notice the plastic has warped - bowing the sides inwards. This could
just be on my kit, but just in case...


The
answer was simple - a plastic wine 'cork' was exactly the right width! The end
was cut at an angle to match the geometry of the intake and this was then
inserted in the intake opening - after the trunking top sections had been
added and allowed to dry.
Boiling
water was poured over the offending part for 5 - 10 secs, before rapid
quenching under the cold tap. Remove 'cork' and hey presto - all is straight
again! This was repeated for the second - again - with full success!


Oh
dear - first really noticeable flaw in the kit - the front windshield is
wrongly shaped, The real aircraft has a windshield that is a simple curve -
not a 'complex', or 'bulged' curve on the kit part!

It's
more noticeable from an angle and suggests that some of the nose countours may
be a little out. I'm sure it's fixable - but it is annoying...
So
- it's off to the drawing board to see what I can come up with...
Watch
out for another installment later on this week.
Iain
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