|
Gallery
- Rodney Williams
Hellcat
Back to
Rodney's Gallery Page
A PICTORIAL ESSAY ON HOW I
BUILT A 1/32 SCALE "F6F-3 HELLCAT"
Here in America, we have an old expression.
"A picture is worth a thousand words." With the ability to view well
over 50-photographs, one certainly has a great deal of reading to do. When
viewing the enclosed photos, put your "P.C." to work, let your
imagination run wild!!!!, it will tell you how I built most of the parts. Oh!
you have to use the "P.C." that is located just behind your
eyeballs, the same one I use. Just click on the "How Would I Do It
>>>>>>>> Icon."
I started this so called
"scratch-building" process in late 1984. I wanted to build the Super
F2G Corsair. Well, for a beginner, the model was certainly a super model. A
story is forthcoming!
With over 15-years experience of
scratch-building, it comes easy for me now. In the
beginning>>>>>>WOW!
In reality, you follow this process:
1. "L.A.PA.D." Look at photos and
drawings.
2. "C.A.F.P.T." Cut and fit parts
together.
3. "L.O.T.A.E." Lots of trial and
error.
Over the years, I have found that you can
not trust drawings. Three separate magazines publish 3-view drawings for the
F6F Hellcat. The panel lines differ from one drawing to the next. Who do you
trust ? Match the drawing to a real photo if possible! Or, better yet. go take
your own measurements, like I did on a P-51D Mustang.
   
As mentioned in my biography, I do not have
any special tools. I guess my most sophisticated tools are my variable-speed
Dremel-"Minimite," and a 3/8" hand drill; pin-vises, drill
bits,( as small as.006" diameter). I also use a variety of fine Jeweler's
files, (cuts from "0" to "6"), and the
"Flex-I-Files." When the Flex-I-Files first hit the market, (late
1970 ?) there was no #600-grit. I talked the owner, Mr.. Fred Shassberger,
d.b.a. "Creations Unlimited," into making the #600 wet/dry sandpaper
available.
I use three types of glue to bond my models
together. Any brand name of white glue and/or super-glue works just fine. The
other glue I use is "Johnson's Future Floor Wax." Don't say
>>>>>>>WHAT!! It works, and once dried, it's as good as
any glue you can use on certain applications. (Experiment!!).
When building the cockpits, I use the white
glue. Once all the parts are cut to the proper size, and fit right, I tack
them together with the white glue. The side consoles are glued in, then the
fuselage halves are temporarily put together. Next, I slip in the bare cockpit
tub. If it fits ok, I remove it and add all the extras; (ie: seat, stick).
Once I am satisfied that everything "LOOKS" right, and fits, it's
photography time.
With all the parts, I need the photos for
re-assembly once the painting is complete. Try putting together several
hundred painted parts, without photos.
I use no type of "fillers," it's
super glue all the way. I use the "Future" to tack on the
windscreens. After a few days of drying time, I fill in the "fine"
gap between the windscreen and fuselage with super-glue. This application will
not "fogged" the windscreen. Then one sands everything smooth,
scribe-in your panel lines, then re-sand, and presto, your are ready to paint.
On final assembly, I use Future for several items, as it does not streak like
white glue, and will accept any brand of "dull-coat."
My canopies and windscreens are sanded down
to #2000 grit wet/dry sandpaper, then polished with "Blue-Magic"
metal polishing cream. I fill a wide mouth jar 3/4 's full of Future. I use
self-locking tweezers to hold my windscreens and canopies , which are
"dipped" into the Future. Place the part on a wet tissue and cover
it with a clear plastic bowl. The clear bowl lets you see where you are
placing it, so you don't hit your part.
After a week or more, I mask the insides,
and air-brush on the frame lines. I do this on all my airplanes, be they 1/32,
1/48, and/or 1/72.
On final assembly, I use all three glues,
applying the glue with "home made" tools. The tools are made from
.006", .008", .010", .015" diameter brass "K &
S" round rod, stuck into the end of a round wooden "Q"-TIP
stick. The cotton is removed on both ends. The rods are about 3 to 4 inches
long, with different size half-moon hooks on the end. With either the
.006"/.008" applicator, I can apply a very tiny
"micro-dot" of any glue.
Well it's time to start reading. The first
photo is one of two, which I had to draw the "BULL" logo.
  
Hope you enjoy these photos.
Rodney
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
|
